A SEA CHANGE

We need to make changes in the fashion industry

‘Clothes will be the answer to the unsettling of the fashion system.’

These words conclude the ‘Anti-Fashion Manifesto’, where esteemed trend forecaster Li Edelkoort speaks of a need to change the fashion industry dramatically. Trends are irrelevant, textiles are misunderstood, collectivity is not taught. Dr Philip Warkander joins Edelkoort’s call for change, saying that ‘fashion is unfashionable’ as relevance shifts to new conversations about how to organise the industry to rethink its long-drawn-out processes of commodification. We need a new focus on working together to create new ways of dressing and sharing. We need new ideas that transform garments, textiles that change our world.

Fast fashion hasn’t just led to a widespread misunderstanding of the art of dressing and making. Overproduction and cheap materials have contributed to the catastrophic levels of pollution in our planet’s oceans, as our throw-away culture encourages fast-moving trends and destructive amounts of waste. The way we make, sell, wear and use clothes needs to change — our oceans demand it.

In response, the Commonwealth of Nations developed the Blue Charter in 2013, an agreement by all Commonwealth countries to commit to helping solve ocean-related issues and to contribute to sustainable development. One goal involves developing the ‘blue economy’, a economically-minded drive to encourage better stewardship of our oceans and its resources — which will, in turn, improve the lives of communities all over the world.

House of Gharats has teamed up with the Commonwealth Fashion Council to engage with some big ideas and an important mission — to explore new ways of making beautiful garments that don’t harm the oceans. With our love for intentional design and artful dressing, we’ve developed our Blue Fashion Scarf Collection with the health of the oceans in mind. From materials drawn from the sea itself, to inspiration that incorporates the world beneath the surface, we’ve created a scarf that holds a part of the ocean within it.

The Collection: Seaweed Fibres And The World Of The Deep

The Designs: Inspiration Come To Life

The designs depict the natural beauty of the deep and the creatures that live there, the wonderful shapes and patterns that come from the underwater world of the sea. The bold colours of a coral reef form the palettes of these bright designs, full of the life that these crucial habitats support. We want to show the magic of the oceans, the incredible world beneath the surface that captivates many with its deep wisdom and soothing peace, its magnificent power and constant mystery. We hope that these beautiful illustrations will inspire their wearers and viewers to consider just what’s at stake.

As a warning about the threat of humanity’s impact on these crucial habitats, we’ve illustrated some of the many human-made items that end up in the planet’s waters. We take inspiration from marine photographer Mandy Barker, whose captivating images show the value in finding beauty in waste. Her photographs contain images of plastic waste that she’s collected from the sea, turning debris into creative and compelling works of art that simultaneously raise awareness about the destructive pollution that’s found its way into these most sacred depths.

We also wanted to draw attention to the interconnectedness of our world, the ways that our actions affect the planet who, in turn, takes care of us. The Colarium sculpture by Jason deCaires Taylor is a semi-submerged installation work found under the waves off the shores of the Maldives. While acting as a habitat for its surrounding coral and marine life, the Coralarium interacts with the sky, the atmosphere and the ocean, forming a physical reminder of the fact that all elements of the planet are connected. Some of the sculptural motifs from this installation piece are featured on our scarves to illustrate our role in this world.

The mission to save our oceans is up to us, and there are some inspirational individuals whose work and leadership we wanted to celebrate as part of our designs. Dr Sylvia Earle, a marine biologist who’s founded many ocean conservation and research organisations, is represented by her submarine that’s a part of her most recent project, ‘Race to the Mariana Trench’. Aptly called ‘Her Deepness’, Dr Earle has spent a lifetime exploring the mysterious fathoms below in her quest to preserve these important places on our planet. The British Royal Family are also featured in our designs. Many key members of the family are heavily involved in sustainable development projects, showing us that everyone (even the Queen!) is connected to our blue oceans. We’ve included Queen Elizabeth’s corgis in our ocean scenes, some riding on the royal dolphins that fall under Her Majesty’s sovereignty. The corgis, a symbol of family for the Queen, remind us that we must unite together to care for our marine family.

The Material: The Power Of Seaweed

We want to bring the ocean to you in every way possible. As part of our efforts to join the ‘blue economy’, we’ve worked with sustainable fibre company SmartFibreAG and their SeaCell materials to create scarves made from the sea itself. SeaCell is made from sustainably farmed seaweed, sourced from the oceans through a gentle and selective process that makes sure to remove only the parts of the plant that can regenerate. The fabric is then created by embedding silk and seaweed within a natural cellulose fibre, saving energy and resources to create a biodegradable and carbon neutral silk. The untreated seaweed allows all its ecological value to remain, preserving the positive elements of this plant within the fibre of this innovative material.

Not only are these scarves good for the planet … they’re good for you, too! Seaweed is pure and rich in essential substances such as trace elements, vitamins, minerals and amino acids. These properties work together to make magic happen for your skin, helping to activate cell regeneration, relieve skin diseases, reduce inflammation and soothe itchiness. The natural moisture of your skin activates an exchange between the SeaCell fibre and your skin, providing a greater sense of wellbeing and a garment that truly adds value to your lifestyle.

The seaweed in this material connects us to the planet and her waters, reminding us of the fundamental importance of water for all forms of life. Water makes up over 70% of both the Earth’s surface and our own bodies. We need to take care of our bodies just as we need to care for the planet, and one way we can do both simultaneously is through innovative fibres like SeaCell. By harnessing the power of seaweed, we can make a change for our bodies and our oceans, all of which are connected by the life-giving waters that reside all around us.

Installations And Symposium:
Engagement With Blue Fashion

House of Gharats is thrilled to see the Blue Fashion collection and message make its way throughout the world, appearing at many events as an example of an innovative material that is changing the game for ocean-minded fashion. The collection was presented at the 2019 Fisheries Innovation Forum of the UN Food and Agriculture Organisation International Symposium on Fisheries Sustainability in Rome, where FAO Director-General Qu Dongyu featured the designs in his highlight.

Have you ever considered wearing or purchasing a garment made out of seaweed fiber? How much seaweed can be used to produce a scarf? Hear the expert on aquaculture @rodroubach and learn more about @houseofgharats and Sustainable fashion with us! #sustainablefashion #bluefashion

Watch our founder & creative director Neishaa Gharat and her designs featured at the 2019 Fisheries Innovation Forum

Hear from Kimberly Sullivan and Rumiana Uzunova of FAO as they share some exciting development within the world of Blue Fashion

At House of Gharats, we believe in the power of engagement, with one of our goals for the Blue Fashion Scarf Collection involving shared conversations and new ideas. In 2019, Neishaa Gharat, our founder & creative director, created the Wishing Net, an art installation piece shown at both the FAO Fisheries Innovation Forum and the Super Super Super event during London Fashion Week. This installment embraces the spirit of collective involvement, using an old fishing net to invite the public to voice their wishes and concerns for the ocean. The wishes were written on recycled papers and tied to the net, forming a powerful message about what’s at stake while inspiring people to take action for the seas. Through the power of art and engagement, we hope to foster emotional connections to drive efforts to save the oceans.