Fashion Wellness

Am I A Cyborg?

‘Cyborg’ is a phrase commonly associated with classic Sci-Fi films, referring to a being with both natural and biomechatronic body parts. The connotations of this word depict far-fetched realities, a stage of societal and technological development which is thousands of years away. However, the integration of technology into different aspects of our lives is bringing this reality closer than we may imagine. 

E-textiles, or, electronic textiles, are fabrics which enable digital components, such as battery, light and sound to be embedded in them. A collaboration between fashion and electronics presents a wealth of opportunity for discovering more about how our bodies interact with and react to technology. 

Pretty Smart Textiles

Pretty Smart Textiles is an exhibition created by artists and designers in the Netherlands who are exploring the intersection of art, fashion and technology. The artists have created an interactive experience which leads the viewer through a multi-sensory discovery of new possibilities for clothing and interior architecture. This exploration asks questions about the morality and benevolence of technology, and its power to explore the invisible, intangible and psychological parts of our lives through sound, movement and light.

For example, the work ‘Intimacy’ by Daan Roosegaarde uses a material which becomes transparent with electricity. By showcasing a blend of fashion and technology in this way, the artist creates the “magic factor”; a visual sensation that is so unusual and undefined that viewers question if what they are seeing is real. In the words of the curators of the exhibition, electronics gives textiles a new sense of poetry for the viewers as they can move, transform, sing or illuminate, an experience reminiscent of dreams.

Furniture Before Fashion?

The presence of electronics in fashion is slowly asserting itself. Designers have discovered illuminated heels which have been showcased by designers such as Jimmy Choo, Karl Lagerfeld and Rodarte. However, they require lots of hand-work and are not ready to be mass produced and sold on the high street.

A movement which may be easier to accept is the integration of e-textiles in furniture and interior design. Psychology is central in the reason for this; according to the curators, e-textiles worn on the body are deemed more invasive of privacy and harder to maintain. For interior design pieces, the process of integrating technology is easier; designers worry less about the material’s fit and cut on the body, and battery sizes can be less discrete. We are likely to see the commercialisation of technology integrated in interior design before fashion. Several textile companies have already built LED lights into curtains and carpets to create a new aesthetic expression, and others have embroidered electronic circuitry into pressure sensory floor pads. 

This technology provides an opportunity to fashion and design our own personal living spaces through textiles, in the same way that we do with our bodies.

Conclusion

Blurring the lines between fashion and technology is still in an experimental phase. As tests and trials clear the fog about what works for our bodies, what is safe and what looks cool, we will become more and more inseparable with technology. So, are we on track to becoming cyborgs? Hundreds of thousands of people in the world already have mechanical implants which help bodily functions such as hearing and movement, not to mention our inseparability and attachment to our phones. As time goes on, our bodies, homes and social interactions are sure to become more centred around technology and all the benefits which come with it.

For the next post in our series, we discover the cosmetic and skin-care benefits of textiles.

The rapid growth of the wellness market reflects how consumers are beginning to take health into their own hands. Part of this movement are “cosmetotextiles”, which carry skin-care benefits in their fibre and are already presenting exciting new possibilities for our health and wellness.

Cosmetotextiles contain extracts from fruit, plants, flowers, and essential oils. Through a process called microencapsulation, scientists capture tiny particles of these ingredients and integrate them into fabric. When fabric and skin come into contact, the benefits of the ingredients are transferred, moisturising the skin, alleviating cellulite and reducing stress.

TENCEL® Fibre: Self Healing Squid-Genes?

Skin, being the largest organ of the human body, is of vital importance to protect. In order to remain healthy, it needs to be moist and elastic. 

TENCEL® fibre is an exciting new development in the field of cosmetotextiles. Acting as a moisture reservoir for the skin, it contains extracts of wood and a substance made up of shellfish, Chitosan. The fusion of these raw materials complement each other in their cosmetic benefit, with powers to alleviate itching, regenerate cells and reduce wrinkles.

The manufacturing of TENCEL® fibre supports a circular production model. Wood and chitosan are fully biodegradable and make use of discarded shrimp cells, helping to build a zero-waste world.

The Power of Zinc Oxide 

Smartcel™ is another exciting development in cosmetotextiles. Zinc oxide is the main ingredient in this fabric, bringing anti-inflammatory benefits, sun protection and anti-bacterial properties. This makes it particularly useful for skin-conditions such as eczema and neurodermitis and helps clothes stay fresh for longer.
SmartCel is good for both the skin and planet, being completely biodegradable and produced in an environmentally friendly way.

Self-Healing Fibres

As well as healing skin, scientists are using a surprising ingredient which allows fabric to repair itself. Using bio-fermentation, textiles company Tandem Repeat isolates squid genes, which have the ability to produce and synthesise self-healing fibres. This acts as a glue to fabrics, minimising the shred of microplastics in the wash and reducing ocean pollution.
Mainstream materials such as cotton and nylon are incredibly resource intensive and continue to put strain on our planet. It is time to explore environmentally-friendly textile production methods like this so that the world’s natural resources are preserved. 

Conclusion

These innovations are promoting a creative, sustainable future for the textile industry. By weaving skin-care into fabric, we are promoting a fashion culture centred around wellbeing and sustainability. 

For the next post in our series, we will explore textiles which are made from and for the environment. We have discovered textile innovations which can both detect and purify air pollution around us, improving the wellness of us and the planet.

Water is an incredibly important natural resource. It is all around us, with more than 50% of the Earth’s surface covered by oceans and our bodies made up of 60-70% water.  Mainstream textile production methods are extremely wasteful of water and harm our ocean resources; it takes more than 20,000 liters of water to produce just one T-shirt and a pair of jeans, according to WWF. 

Ocean Friendly Fashion

Blue Fashion is an emerging sector and promotes the use of marine raw materials in the textile and fashion industry. As part of this movement, a number of innovative African designers are transforming discarded fish skins into fish leather. Fish skins are an amazing ocean resource; they are flexible, strong and have delicate layers of unique patterns and colours. The production of fish leather recycles waste and is kind to our oceans, while providing jobs and encouraging economic growth in coastal areas.

In previous blog posts, we discussed the unique capability of both squid genes and seaweed to improve our wellness. Squid genes are able to synthesise self-healing fibres which make fabrics stronger and live longer. Seaweed is a highly nutritious skin-care ingredient, containing essential elements and minerals which can activate cell regeneration, reduce inflammation and soothe itchiness. These examples highlight the amazing power of the ocean to improve our health and wellness in a sustainable way.

Harvesting Our Pollution With Fashion

Every year, the fashion industry generates thousands of tons of waste. Cheap materials contain microplastic particles which are littered into the oceans when washed, causing premature death to marine life. Scientists at the Ocean Clean Up are using natural oceanic forces to collect and reduce plastic in oceans. They then recycle the harvested plastic and create new products, turning fashion’s pollution problem into a solution.

Bracenet is another innovative company trying to reduce ocean pollution through fashion. “Ghost nets” are nautical materials which have been lost or thrown away at sea. Designers from Bracenet collect this discarded fishing equipment and transform it into unique bracelets. Bracenet is a partner with the company Aquafil, who has developed a yarn made entirely from ocean and landfill waste. Gucci has featured this yarn in one of bag collections, setting an important example to the fashion industry.

Similarly, company Camoz recycles old sails and boat scraps to create bags and accessories. The European Boating Industry estimates that around 80,000 boats reach the end of their life each year, leaving their hull, deck and rigging as waste. Camoz promotes a circular fashion model by reusing these discarded materials and reducing the amount of litter in the oceans. As well as supporting a zero-waste fashion culture, Camoz has its own unique nautical vibe which is extremely fashionable.

Conclusion

The fashion industry can tackle ocean pollution by finding innovative ways of reusing waste and taking responsibility for the waste it produces. By using ocean resources sustainably, we are supporting the Blue Economy, which aims to improve job opportunities while preserving the health of the oceans.

For the next post in our series, we learn about wearable technology and smart textiles and how they are impacting the way we exercise, work and socialise.

Wearable technology is a category of smart electronic devices that are worn on the body. They have the ability to analyse and send information about the body back to the wearer in the form of a mobile phone notification. Smart textiles are a subset of wearable technology which have performance enhancing purposes. In this blog post, we explore how these two types of clothing are changing our relationship with technology and our approach to health and wellness. 

Athletics, Athleisure Smart Textiles

The sport industry has embraced smart textiles as they can improve athletic performance. Researchers have designed sportswear which can help improve athletic performance through body temperature regulation, wind resistance and muscle vibration control. For example, Merino wool is able to transmit heat effectively and reduce body temperature when overheating. Smart clothing which allows skin to breathe is important as it allows athletes to perform to the best of their ability for longer.

These smart fabrics bring heightened levels of comfort, making them attractive for everyday life. This has birthed the athleisure movement, a hybrid type of clothing where athletic wear is worn in other situations, such as the work place, home, or social events. Brands such as Lululemon and Gymshark blur the lines between comfort, business and athletics, breaking down conventional barriers of fashion. Nike and Adidas have turned tennis, running and basketball shoes into wildly popular fashion statements.

In fact, athleisure is one of the few industries which has thrived in the covid-19 pandemic. With a growing prominence of online shopping and an increase in the popularity of home workouts, people are more inclined to combine home, work and sportswear as a matter of convenience. Athleisure facilitates a multi-tasking lifestyle suitable for modern living.

A Step into Digital Life

The athleisure and athletic world has also embraced digital forms of wearable technology. Accessories such as the Apple Watch or Fitbit can track the distance you run, swim, and cycle, as well as the number of calories you burn and take in. Some also monitor heart rate and sleep quality. Debates about invasions of privacy exist, with users questioning the ethics of tracking location and food consumption. Time will tell if privacy is a genuine concern, or if this lifestyle is simply something to get used to.

Google has created a product which allows technology to be part of our daily fashion. Their product, the Jacquard™, is a small, digital tag which attaches to your clothes and allows you to stay connected to your digital devices at all times. In collaboration with Saint Laurent, they have created a luxury backpack which can respond to touch and light up when you have left your mobile phone behind. Similarly, when working with  Levi’s®, they designed a Trucker jacket which is able to answer calls, play music and take photos from your sleeve. Our lives are becoming more and more digital. 

Accessories like this will have a big impact on our relationship with technology in our day to day life. What makes the Jacquard different to other wearable technologies is that our clothes maintain their original purpose, but have additional digital capabilities. Normally, wearable technologies are designed for a particular and obvious performance enhancing purpose. The difference is subtle and shows how technology is becoming more seamlessly integrated in our lives. 

Tracking Emotions?

Some wearable technology is also able to detect emotions. Royal Philips Electronics have created a dress which changes colour depending on what mood the wearer is in. The dress itself is made up of two layers, containing biometric sensors which detect personal emotions and project them into colours on the outer textile. The designers adopt the philosophy that future garments should be sensitive and express the personality of the wearer, rather than simply generating numerical data about the body.

All these developments would not be possible without nanotechnology. Nanotechnology allows textiles to have smart properties, such as breathability, electrical conductivity, data transmission and sensing capability, to name a few. It forms the foundation of innovations in smart textiles and wearable technology. 

Conclusion

Scientists are using fashion as a medium for increasing our engagement with digital devices. Thanks to wearable technology, we know more about our health and wellness than ever before. It is changing the way we exercise, work, socialise and express emotions, helping it become an inseparable part of our day to day life.

To conclude this series, we reflect on how much we’ve learnt about science, fashion and wellness. By opening our mind, we know more about how the intersection of these three things impact different parts of our life and planet. Looking to the future, we expect to see more developments and refinements to existing textile technology, and to see a deeper integration of it into our health and wellness.